{"id":3521,"date":"2026-10-08T19:43:44","date_gmt":"2026-10-08T11:43:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.gs-plants.com\/blog\/?p=3521"},"modified":"2026-10-08T19:43:44","modified_gmt":"2026-10-08T11:43:44","slug":"how-do-i-store-my-lawn-mower-in-the-winter-42d1-059e28","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.gs-plants.com\/blog\/2026\/10\/08\/how-do-i-store-my-lawn-mower-in-the-winter-42d1-059e28\/","title":{"rendered":"How do I store my lawn mower in the winter?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Hey there, fellow lawn care lovers! If you\u2019re reading this, chances are your grass has slowed down a whole lot lately, the air\u2019s got that crisp winter chill, and you\u2019re probably staring at your trusty lawn mower like, \u201cWait, what do I do with you now?\u201d I get it. I\u2019m not just some random blogger typing at a screen\u2014 I run a small lawn equipment supply business, so I talk to people like you every single day who\u2019ve messed up storing their mowers and ended up with a dead machine come spring. Nothing sucks more than pulling your mower out of the garage in March only to find it won\u2019t start, right? Let\u2019s walk through this step by step, no stuffy jargon, just real tips that actually work. Lawn Mower<\/a><\/p>\n

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First off, let\u2019s get one thing straight: winter storage isn\u2019t just shoving your mower in the back of the shed and forgetting about it. I\u2019ve seen so many people skip the prep and then wonder why their carburetor\u2019s clogged or their battery\u2019s shot. Your mower works hard all summer, so it deserves a little TLC to make it last for years. I sell mowers (and parts, by the way) every year, and the #1 complaint I hear is from folks who didn\u2019t prep for winter. Don\u2019t be that person.<\/p>\n

Let\u2019s start with the basics: whether you\u2019ve got a gas push mower, a self-propelled gas model, or even a riding mower, the first thing you need to handle is the fuel. Old gas is the enemy here. If you leave gas in the tank over winter, it breaks down, gets gummy, and clogs up the tiny jets in the carburetor. That\u2019s the #1 reason mowers won\u2019t start in spring\u2014 trust me, I\u2019ve cleaned enough carbs to know. So what do you do? Two main options, depending on how you use your mower.<\/p>\n

If you don\u2019t use your mower super often, or you\u2019re storing it for 3+ months, drain the old gas completely. Just run the mower until it dies from no fuel, that\u2019ll clear the lines and the carb. If you don\u2019t want to drain it, you can add a fuel stabilizer to the tank before you shut it down. But you\u2019ve got to follow the instructions\u2014 usually, you add it to fresh gas, run the mower for 5-10 minutes after adding it so the treated gas gets all the way through the system. If your gas is already old (like, from last summer), don\u2019t waste stabilizer on it\u2014 just drain it. You can\u2019t fix old, stale gas with additives, no matter what the bottle says. Also, never just dump old gas on the ground or down a drain\u2014 take it to a local gas station that accepts used fuel, or a household hazardous waste drop-off. No need to get a fine for being lazy.<\/p>\n

Next up, the battery. If you\u2019ve got an electric start mower or a riding mower, your battery is going to take a hit if you leave it hooked up all winter. Car batteries and mower batteries lose charge over time, even if they\u2019re not being used. For small batteries (like the ones on push mowers), you can disconnect the negative cable and store it in a cool, dry place\u2014 not on the concrete floor of your garage, by the way, concrete can suck the charge out. For larger riding mower batteries, even better: take it out, clean the terminals with a wire brush to get rid of any corrosion, give it a full charge, and check it every month or so. If it drops below 12 volts, top it off. If you just leave the battery on the mower, even on a trickle charger, make sure the charger is the right one for your battery\u2014 a cheap one can overcharge and kill it. I\u2019ve had customers bring in batteries that died because they used the wrong charger, so don\u2019t skip this step.<\/p>\n

Now, the blades. Your mower blades work hard cutting through thick grass, so they\u2019ve probably got grass clippings, sap, and dirt caked on them. If you leave that stuff on over winter, it can cause rust, and it\u2019ll also make your blade duller for next spring. First, make sure your mower is off, unplugged if it\u2019s electric, and the spark plug wire is disconnected (super important\u2014 you don\u2019t want it accidentally starting while you\u2019re working). Tilt the mower on its side, but be careful: if you have a gas mower, tilt it so the air filter and carb are pointing up, not down, otherwise oil will leak into the engine or the filter. Once it\u2019s tilted, scrape off all the gunk with a putty knife or a old brush. Then, check the blade for rust and for sharpness. If it\u2019s dull, you can sharpen it yourself with a file or a bench grinder, or take it to a local shop\u2014 a sharp blade doesn\u2019t just cut better, it\u2019s easier on your mower\u2019s engine too, since it doesn\u2019t have to work as hard. Also, if the blade is bent or damaged, replace it before storage\u2014 trying to straighten a bent blade is a bad idea, it can throw off balance and damage the engine when you use it.<\/p>\n

Oil change time? Wait, do you need to change the oil before winter storage? For small gas engines, yeah, it\u2019s a good call. Over the mowing season, oil picks up dirt and metal particles, which can cause wear while it\u2019s sitting. So change the oil before you store it. Use the type of oil recommended in your mower\u2019s manual\u2014 most push mowers use 10W-30, but double check. You don\u2019t want to use the wrong oil, that\u2019ll cause problems when you start it up in spring. For riding mowers, same rule applies: change the oil, or if you\u2019re not sure when the last change was, it\u2019s worth doing. If you\u2019ve got an electric mower, you can skip the oil change (most electric models don\u2019t have an oil filter anyway), just focus on the other stuff.<\/p>\n

Now, cleaning the whole mower. Don\u2019t just stop at the blade\u2014 wipe down the deck, the handle, the engine (if it\u2019s gas, don\u2019t blast water directly at the carb or air filter, use a soft brush or a damp cloth), and the top of the mower. Grass clippings left in the deck can hold moisture, which leads to rust. Give everything a good scrub, let it dry completely, then you can spray a light coat of rust inhibitor or even WD-40 on the metal parts to keep them from rusting over the winter. Just don\u2019t overdo it on the plastic or rubber parts, that can make them sticky or degrade over time.<\/p>\n

Where you store your mower matters too. Some people just leave it outside covered, but even a heavy tarp isn\u2019t perfect\u2014 moisture can get trapped inside, and rodents love to chew on wires or nest in the engine. So the best place is a cool, dry, indoor space: your garage, a shed, a storage unit, even the back of your basement. If you have to leave it outside, make sure it\u2019s in a spot that\u2019s elevated (on blocks, not directly on the ground) so water can\u2019t pool under it, and use a breathable tarp\u2014 not a plastic one, because plastic traps moisture. Also, keep it away from any chemicals like fertilizer or paint, those fumes can damage the engine or rubber parts over time. If you have rodents around, stuff steel wool in any gaps around the engine or under the deck\u2014 they can\u2019t chew through steel wool, and it\u2019ll keep them from making a home in your mower.<\/p>\n

Wait, what about electric mowers vs. gas? I get asked this all the time. Electric push mowers are a bit easier for storage, since no gas to drain or stabilize, but the battery (the big rechargeable one) is their weak point. For lithium-ion batteries (which most new electric mowers use), remove the battery, clean the terminals, charge it to about 50% (not full, not empty\u2014 that\u2019s how lithium batteries stay healthy long-term), and store it in a cool, dry place, not attached to the mower. If you leave it on the mower, it\u2019ll drain over time, and if it gets too cold, it can hold a charge less when spring comes. Corded electric mowers? Unplug it, wrap the cord neatly (don\u2019t yank it around, that can damage the wires), and store the mower somewhere the cord won\u2019t get pinched or chewed by pets.<\/p>\n

What about riding mowers? If you\u2019ve got a big riding mower, the steps are similar, just scaled up. Same fuel treatment, same battery care, clean the undercarriage really well because it\u2019s bigger and holds more grass and dirt. If you can, put it on blocks so the tires aren\u2019t sitting on the ground all winter\u2014 flat spots on the tires are a pain to fix. Inflate the tires to the recommended pressure before storing, that helps keep them from getting flat spots too.<\/p>\n

Now, a few common mistakes I see every year. First, waiting too long to prep. Don\u2019t wait until the first big snowfall to touch your mower\u2014 do it a few weeks before the first frost, when you still have time. Second, skipping the fuel stabilizer or draining the gas. I can\u2019t tell you how many customers bring their mowers in to repair in April and the carb is completely clogged from old gas. Third, not cleaning the blade or deck. Rust is a slow killer, and it starts with a little bit of moisture left on dirty metal. Fourth, storing it outside. Yeah, it takes up space in your garage, but it\u2019s way better than ruining a $500 mower because you didn\u2019t want to move a few boxes.<\/p>\n

Once you\u2019ve done all that, it\u2019s just about checking in on it once a month. If you\u2019ve got a battery, make sure it\u2019s still holding a charge. If it\u2019s stored in a damp basement, maybe prop a box of baking soda near it to absorb moisture. That\u2019s it\u2014 no fancy tools, no expensive products, just a little bit of time and care.<\/p>\n

Come spring, when you pull that mower out, you\u2019ll be so glad you did this. No struggling to get it to start, no clogged carb, no rusted blades. It\u2019ll fire up on the first pull, cut better than ever, and be ready to go all summer.<\/p>\n

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If you\u2019re in the market for a new mower (or parts for the one you have) to make next summer even easier, we\u2019ve got you covered. Our team can help you pick the right model for your yard size, whether it\u2019s a small push mower for a backyard or a riding mower for a larger property. We also carry all the parts you\u2019ll need for maintenance throughout the year, so you can keep your mower running smooth for years. Hit us up to chat, we\u2019re here to help with any questions you have about lawn care or mower upkeep.<\/p>\n

Mini Dumper<\/a> References:<\/p>\n

    \n
  1. Outdoor Power Equipment Institute. (2022). Winter Storage Guidelines for Lawn Mowers.<\/li>\n
  2. Consumer Reports. (2023). How to Store a Lawn Mower for Winter.<\/li>\n
  3. Small Engine Technology International. (2021). Proper Battery Care for Small Gas Engines.<\/li>\n
  4. Toro. (2022). Lawn Mower Winter Prep Tips for All Mower Types.<\/li>\n
  5. University of Minnesota Extension. (2021). Preventing Rust and Corrosion in Garden Equipment.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n
    \n

    Jining Sunsail Machinery Co., Ltd.<\/a>
    With abundant experience, we are one of the most professional lawn mower manufacturers and suppliers in China. We warmly welcome you to buy high-grade lawn mower made in China here from our factory. For price consultation, contact us.
    Address: Room 410, Digital Industry Building, Rencheng District, Jining City, Shandong Province,China
    E-mail: Sunsail_machinery@163.com
    WebSite:     https:\/\/www.sunsailmachine.com\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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